Four-Strand Turquoise and Hieshe Necklace [R]

When the Spaniards arrived in the Southwest in the 16th Century, the Pueblo Indians were using turquoise in monumental amounts. To protect their source from desecration by the newcomers, they pretended to attach no significance to the blue stone. In reality, turquoise was a prized possession. To wear it insured the wearer would have good luck, good health, and much happiness. If a person looks upon turquoise on awakening in the morning, his day will be a good one.

Turquoise was believed to possess magical properties. One legend has it that if a sweetheart were unfaithful, the turquoise that he or she wore would lose its color. Of course, poor quality, low-grade turquoise will fade. Many a romance may have been ended because of poor quality turquoise rather than an unfaithful sweetheart. Many adobe homes in New Mexico have turquoise colored wood trim—doors and windows—because it is believed to ward off evil spirits.

It is not surprising, then, that those necklaces made of turquoise are the most popular among the Pueblo peoples. They were worn long before silver was introduced for use as jewelry. Not only are necklaces made from turquoise, combined with white shell, the most popular; they also are the most beautiful.

Turquoise and shell (hieshe) necklaces are constructed of relatively flat, somewhat oval turquoise pieces that are drilled slightly off center or, sometimes, small nugget-shaped turquoise stones drilled in the center. The shell is cut into small, often square pieces, drilled and strung on string, then slowly and meticulously rolled over sandstone until each piece is round and all the pieces are of the same diameter. The drilled turquoise stones and shell beads are then strung on cotton twine. Cotton is used because it is softer and doesn’t wear against the shell too abrasively.

This four-strand necklace was constructed mostly of nugget-shaped turquoise of a beautiful sky blue color with exquisite veins of matrix. In typical pueblo fashion, one flat, turquoise stone, drilled off-center was tied on to the necklace with string. There is one jet-black round glass trade bead. At the ends of each strand, there are about three inches of transparent glass beads, and then the ends of the four strands are wrapped with cotton string in a pueblo wrap.