Honoring the Weavers: The Dr. Gregory Schaaf Collection : A Joint Project of Pojoaque Poeh Museum and Southwest Learning Centers [SOLD]

From the Introduction

The time has come to honor the weavers. For over 2,000 years, men and women in the Southwest have woven beautiful textiles, baskets and other fine weavings. The oldest known vegetal fiber twinings and yucca plaited wares may date back over ten millenia. Coiled basketry soon emerged, followed by fabrics from natural plants. Cotton weaving began in Mesoamerica and spread northward in the tradition of Kokopelli. Most of the weavers have remained anonymous up to the present time. Living weavers and their ancient ancestors deserve our respect, inspiring our title, “Honoring the Weavers.”

The late textile specialist Kate Peck Kent also deserves recognition. She wrote two important books on Southwest weaving: Prehistoric Textiles of the Southwest and Pueblo Indian Textiles: A Living Tradition. Both texts are now out of print. The present work picks up where she left off. Dr. Schaaf's studies of her books, field notes and collections at the School of American Research and other materials at The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture in Santa Fe have made it possible to offer original contributions to the field.

Dr. Schaaf tells the following story about how his contact with Pueblo weaving led him to consider devoting his energies to a revival of this slowly dying art form:

I first met a Pueblo weaver over 15 years ago during the beginning of my service as historian for the Hopi. I was sitting at the feet of a wise leader of a society of prophetic singers. As he related his visions, this kind, soft-spoken man with one eye was weaving one of the most beautiful of Pueblo textiles, the brocaded Kachina sash. His fingers moved fast and gracefully. He rocked gently in rhythm, weaving his tale along with this broad, colorful belt worn by societies of spiritual dancers. As some elders say, “You can weave yourself well.”

I felt so happy when this Singer Society priest offered to weave me a complete set of Kachina textiles. Our friendship grew as over the years he presented me with many lovely weavings. Determined to complete the work, he wove the last kilt, a ceremonial skirt, even though he had gone blind. Now, in his 90's, his visions continue to come. We sat together last year during the spring purification ceremonies. We joked and teased and enjoyed a wonderful time.

Some elder weavers, with tears in their eyes, have confided to me their fears that the old Pueblo weaving arts may die out. While Navajo rugs continue to be woven for a growing collector market, Pueblo textiles are woven mostly for Pueblo people who wear them in ceremonies. Machine woven cloth and acrylic yarns have been introduced because replicated wares can be made faster. In the present generation, knowledge of how to weave in the old ways lies in the hands of very few traditional weavers.

During the 1995 Indian Market in Santa Fe, I was sitting next to Lucy Yepa Lowden, the elder Jemez Pueblo weaver and doll maker. As she fingered her handwoven belts dyed from indigo and natural plants, she expressed heartfelt concerns for the future. Both the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture and I added her works to our collections, while tens of thousands of other collectors walked past, not recognizing the rare and subtle qualities of Pueblo textiles. I concluded that broader public appreciation demanded public education.

I was struck by the thought that I might witness the death of traditional Pueblo weaving during my lifetime. How could I and others be helpful in fostering a revival? First, I proclaimed a twenty-year commitment to help support the revival of classic Pueblo textiles. Second, I began to compile lists of all known Pueblo weavers: names, addresses, phone numbers, and their specific skills in weaving. I asked weavers for their counsel and advice in how I might be helpful. Third, I expanded my collection to include classic examples in each type and contemporary examples when they could be found. I put the word out to my fellow collectors, and soon boxes began arriving from across the land. The collection has now grown to over 150 textiles, from about 1850 to the present.

The idea for the Pueblo Textiles Exhibit came during a meeting of representatives from the Pueblo of Pojoaque-Lt. Governor George Rivera, Poeh Museum Curator Joyce Begay-Foss, and Program Director Pamela Pilkonis - and Southwest Learning Centers - Director Seth Roffman, Program Director Fidel Moreno and Dr. Gregory Schaaf. The leaders and staffs of both groups deserve recognition for their good work. Joyce Begay-Foss deserves special credit for organizing classes in Pueblo weaving, along with Shawn Tafoya and Isabel Gonzales, who coordinated Pueblo embroidery classes. Classes have recently expanded from Pojoaque to the Santa Fe Public Schools.

Paul Gonzales, Director of the Southwestern Association of Indian Arts, and his staff were especially supportive. He kindly offered a large demonstration space for Pueblo weavers in the center of the plaza during the 1996 Santa Fe Indian Art Market. Bruce Bernstein, Director of the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, and his staff have arranged for one of the Pueblo Textile classes to be offered at the museum. The Museum also invited the exhibit to show during the winter of 1996. The School of American Research kindly made their collection and archives available. They curate the important papers, slides and materials of perhaps the foremost authority on Pueblo Textiles, the late Kate Peck Kent. Current textile specialists Mark Winter and Christopher Selser graciously offered their technical expertise. Thanks to them and many others this outstanding educational collection was built.

The energy behind the revival movement is now gaining momentum. May the spirits of Paul Sewamenewa, Lucy Yepa Lowden, and all the Pueblo weavers from long ago, today and into the future, be recognized with respect. Let admirers of Native American arts and crafts unite to revive classic Pueblo textile tradition. Let us join together in “Honoring the Weavers.”