Diné Silver and Turquoise Cluster Bracelet by Fannie Ashley [SOLD]

A bracelet of this style goes by the name “cluster bracelet.” Such bracelets consist of circles of small turquoise gemstones set in bezels and mounted on a flat silver plate.  The silver plate just barely extends beyond the outer row of turquoise and is usually scalloped on the edge to provide a surface on which to mount small silver dots. It is customary to separate the rows of turquoise with twisted silver wire as was done here.  The silver plate of this bracelet is mounted on a foundation of four silver flat bars for support. The bracelet is stamped F. Ashley who is a Diné artisan from Saint Michaels, Arizona, region. Fannie Ashley’s hallmark was noted as early as 1974.

This bracelet is a masterpiece of workmanship and beauty. Balanced circles of small gemstones mimic the look of a sunflower. Each individual stone rests in a delicate sawtooth bezel.  This bracelet was fashioned for sale, as indicated by the fact that it was signed by the artisan. It also is slightly smaller in diameter than those made by the women for their own use.

Cluster bracelets first were made by Diné for their own use.  Early photos taken by Laura Gilpin of women of the Navajo Nation show them wearing similar style bracelets.  Even today, if you visit a Navajo event, like the Shiprock Fair, you will see Navajo women displaying such bracelets.  Looking at this lovely bracelet is like looking at a part of Navajo history.

Many Diné artists earn a living making jewelry for tourists and collectors. They also frequently make jewelry for themselves and their families. What distinguishes the work they make for themselves is that it tends to be of a heavier gauge silver.  As within any culture, clothing and jewelry are identifiers of what people deem important. For the Diné, wearing silver and turquoise jewelry was and still is an integral part of both men and women’s attire for special occasions like weddings, first smile celebrations and graduations. 

Condition: this Diné Silver and Turquoise Cluster Bracelet by Fannie Ashley is in original condition

Provenance: Private Santa Fe collection

Recommended Reading: The Navajo and Pueblo Silversmiths by John Adair

HOW TO MEASURE YOUR WRIST FOR BRACELET SIZE

Measure your wrist with a flexible tape measurement or a strip of paper just below the wrist bone, where you would normally wear the bracelet.

Option: If you are using a plain strip of paper, mark your size with a pen or pencil then use a ruler to measure the length. That would be your wrist size.

Tip: Do you want a snug or loose fit? Well, that really will vary between everyone. If you are buying a delicate bracelet, we suggest doing a snug fit. Most other bracelets should have a comfort fit except when buying large or thick cuffs or bangles. It's best to buy large bracelets with a loose fit so you don't feel like you are suffocating your wrist, or it will be worn over clothing.